This DIY article; and the rest of the how-to section of my blog, cover most of the basics of how to properly build a flagstone patio. These articles provide general guidance, or at least advice, useful for hobbyists, DIY landscape designers/builders, and professional builders alike. So, what type of foundation should we build for our flagstone patio: sand, cement, or gravel? Short answer: It depends. Quarry screening (if one is available in your area) is usually best done under flagstone. Screening is also one of the best options among gemstones, but there are other options available to achieve different aesthetics. First, we'll address the structural question of "what to use under the slab." Cement - at some point it (may) break. It may last a long time, but when it does break down, fixing it will be a lot more work than repairing dry slate. Sand – ants will dig it up and leave it everywhere…sand can also be washed away, causing rocks to settle. Gravel – There’s really no problem here, just use the right type of gravel. Even better, use modified gravel as a base and then stone powder (aka quarry screening, aka grit, aka quarry dust) as the final leveling agent. Okay, so let's be more specific.

판석 파티오 기초에 자갈이 최선의 선택인 이유는 무엇입니까?

The cement (may) crack. Especially grade cement. Especially in a winter climate like ours here in Pennsylvania. A worse method is to lay the slabs on a bed of gravel and then cement the joints between the stones. Terrible idea. The gravel base is elastic and will move slightly during freezing and thawing. Well, if the foundation is not done well, the movement may be more slight, but let's assume the foundation is done well. The gravel base definitely moves around a bit - you would never know it looking at any of my patios, but the movement does happen. Cement is rigid - if you put a rigid top on a flexible base, systematic cracking is inevitable. If the flagstone happens to be sitting on a concrete foundation, then cement is certainly a good joint-filling material. But why on earth would you want a concrete foundation? The concrete itself will eventually crack. In northern climates, it could rupture within a decade - and the likelihood of rupture within the next three years is also quite high. The environmental impact of concrete production is no small issue either. I personally prefer dry stone work anyway. More harmonious, warmer, just better. In my opinion, the feel you get from a well done dry laid flagstone patio is better than a cement flagstone patio. my thoughts. A cement-lined flagstone patio can certainly look great and last a long time. I've built a lot of things that look great - years later. But if there is cement between the joints, it is better to have a concrete foundation. I was serious. Sand...well, if you use really heavy sand, you might get away with it. However, most sand sold in packages is too fine. Of course, you can use coarse sand under the flagstone. When I used to build brick patios, I would alternate between using coarse sand or a quarry screen, which worked fine. Their patio still looks great. However, these are brick patios, and the spaces between the paving units are about a quarter-inch wide. The problem with sand is that it gets washed away by water, blown away by wind, and carried away by ants. That's why stone dust (aka screen, aka decomposed granite) works better than sand for underneath flagstone. Not as nice as my flagstone patio though! The problem with using uniform sand under flagstone is that the bricks are of uniform thickness. So it's not too much trouble to get your gravel base nearly perfect and then proceed to dig out an inch of sand for your bricks to sit on. With flagstone, however, the thickness varies too much—one stone may need half an inch of sand, while another needs 2 inches of sand. If you are using sand then changes in thickness can cause problems. Screening is almost the same as modified gravel - they are really one of the two components of modified gravel... they are heavy enough that using 2 inches on one stone and half an inch on the other is really no problem - ten Years later, that patio still looks sharp.

녹슨 석영 사양 보드

모래에 있는 판석 테라스는 개미 침입과 긁힘에 취약합니다.

Occasionally I see paver patios cluttered with ants. However, ants will always attack a flagstone patio laid in sand. I imagine this is because the joints of the slabs will inevitably be wider and/or because the slabs are of different thicknesses, meaning that in some places you will end up with deeper sand. Regardless of the exact cause, I can tell you that every flagstone patio I've ever seen laid in sand eventually became infested with ants. Another reason to use screen is that screen is also an excellent caulking material. You don’t want to use sand, even coarse sand, between the joints of your flagstones because it will wash away—unless, of course, your flagstones are very tight. For pattern cut flagstone, yes you can use sand as a joint filler. Just make sure the base is coarse sand, not fine sand. However, since the seams are too tight, you will need to use fine sand. Again, ants love fine sand - but in this application, pattern cut stone, tiny seams - fine sand wouldn't be the end of the world - as long as the base is of course. This applies to pattern cut slate - or any slate with very tight joints - in which case you may be able to go without sand as long as you follow the guidelines I set earlier in this paragraph. For irregular slate, or any slate with joints wider than a quarter-inch, you really should try to avoid sand and use stone dust instead.

당신의 땅에 판석을 놓을 수 있습니까?

Your own native soil – If your own native subsoil is made up of about 20-40% clay, with the rest mostly sand and gravel, then that soil is fine. And for ten years without any interruption. Then you already have a good solid base 🙂 You could definitely take the clay out of your subsoil, work out how much sand and gravel it already contains, then calculate how much gravel you should add, and then get some gravel from elsewhere nearby. What I'm talking about here is using in situ materials to try to mimic the performance characteristics of a road base and/or create a gravel core soil mix that is well drained, compacted, and stable. This type of work is still in the R&D stage for me. More on this as the research progresses. Suffice to say, yes, it can be done, but it's a bit complicated and beyond the scope of this article.

좋아요, 그래서 우리는 바닥에 자갈을 붙이고 레벨링제로 (일명 돌가루) 체로 쳤습니다.

마스킹으로 돌아가서 슬라브 사이에 레벨러와 코킹 마스킹을 사용하면 좋은 장면을 만들 수 있습니다. 석재 아래의 스크린에 사소한 문제가 있는 경우 코킹이 슬래브 아래의 빈 공간을 채우고 채울 것이므로 그다지 중요하지 않습니다. 위아래로 스크리닝이 있으며 효과가 매우 좋습니다. 첫 해 안에 하나의 상영을 완료할 것으로 예상할 수 있습니다. 작은 부분이 가라앉거나 씻겨 나갈 것입니다. 문제 없습니다. 새로운 자료를 쓸어담기만 하면 됩니다. 그 후 앞으로 몇 년 동안은 괜찮을 거예요. 제가 드리는 최선의 조언은 고객이 저를 고용하여 1년에 한 번씩 몇 시간 정도 유지 관리 작업을 하도록 하라는 것입니다. 꼭 필요한 것은 아니지만 저는 제 작업이 반짝이는 것을 좋아합니다. 물론. 내 과거 고객이 내 작업에 대해 어떻게 말하는지 확인하세요. 이 기사에서 제가 다루지 않은 것 중 하나는 폴리머 모래입니다. Polysand에 대해 궁금하시다면 이제 또 다른 hardscape 사용법 블로그 게시물을 알려드리겠습니다. 당신이 여러 가지 호기심을 갖고 있다면 그렇습니다. 나는 또한 위의 시스템을 사용하여 단일 판석 파티오가 실패한 적이 없다는 점을 덧붙여야 할 것입니다. 좋아요, 아마도 돌에 약간의 침전이 있을 수 있습니다. 이는 몇 분 안에 고칠 수 있지만(거의 발생하지 않음) 큰 문제는 없습니다. 한동안 이 일도 해왔습니다. 제가 운영하는 가장 큰 판석 테라스에서는 보통 몇 년에 한 번씩 3시간의 유지 관리 세션을 권장합니다. 이렇게 하면 테라스가 최적의 모양으로 유지됩니다. 나는 매우 까다롭고 내 작업이 항상 완벽해 보이길 원합니다. 종종 나는 몇 년 후에 고객의 집으로 돌아가는데 여전히 완벽한 상태입니다. 유지보수가 필요하지 않습니다! 일반적으로 5~10년 내에 파티오가 어느 정도 주목을 받게 될 것입니다.