• Custruite un Pavimentazione di Muru di Sostegnu in Pietra Secca Impilata
ghjennaghju. U 16 di u 2024 16:45 Torna à a lista

Custruite un Pavimentazione di Muru di Sostegnu in Pietra Secca Impilata

Un muru di petra assemblatu senza mortaru hà assai creve per plantà

beige limestone
 

 

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Once you have selected your site, you need to choose your stones. Look for rocks with angular faces—they stack better and a give a firmer repose. Rounded rocks are almost impossible to build into a wall without using copious amounts of mortar. An ideal rock has six parallel faces (like a brick). Regretfully, there aren’t many ideal rocks available, so look for angular rocks with the most flat faces.

Piastrelle arrugginite

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Vulete custruisce u vostru propiu muru di sustegnu di petra, ma ùn sapete cumu cumincià? Sì avete un irregolare yard, un muru di petra pò aiutà à prevene l'erosione è furnisce un bellu locu per plantà. Per amparà cumu mette u vostru propiu inseme, da u principiu à a fine, leghjite.

 

To figure out how much stone you’ll need, multiply your wall’s height times the depth times the length. If your wall is 2 feet high, 1-1/2 feet wide, and 20 feet long, you’ll need roughly 60 cubic feet of stone. Most stoneyards will deliver the stones for a slight charge; have them placed as close to the site of your retaining wall as possible.

In quantu tools, you’ll need a shovel for digging your trench and backfilling, a mattu for attacking the grade, and a small sledgehammer for tamping soil. For marking your site and leveling rocks, you’ll need a line level, a few tall stakes, string, some flour, and a 4- or 8-foot level.

 

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So you’re all set with your arnesi, un pocu d'acqua potable, è forse qualchì melodia per travaglià. A prima cosa da fà hè di determinà a faccia frontale di u muru. S'ellu hè drittu, un tavulinu o una stringa stendu trà stakes pò esse usatu per marcà a linea. Altrimenti, aduprate una manguera di giardinu è marcate u bordu cù farina.

 

Now you can start digging. The easiest approach is to cut and fill—that is, dig into the slope where the wall will go and spread the earth below you to create a level terrace. When you cut and fill, the wall is backed by undisturbed soil, which is more stable than fill. For design reasons, however, you might choose to build a freestanding wall and fill behind it with soil from another site. Or you might do a partial cut and fill, which is somewhere between the two.

I muri sò custruiti in corsi. The base course is structurally the most important, while the final course, the capstone, is the most challenging. For stability, walls should be at least 20 inches wide at the base. They can taper slightly toward the top, but you’ll want a wall that is at least two rocks wide in most places. This can be accomplished by mixing stones of different sizes or by backfilling with a combination of two-thirds rubble to one-third soil.

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 Scavà una trinchera per u cursu di basa

Start by digging a trench about 4 inches deep and at least 2 feet wide. A straightedged spade will give you a nice, even edge. The first course must be very solid and tightly fit because the weight of the wall will rest on it. Take the time to find rocks that lock into place, without leaving gaps. Randomly lay your largest rocks along the front edge of the trench. Set the first stone, shifting it around until it sits securely without being rocked easily, and then fill with the remaining stones. If you are using rectangular stones, you want the height of adjacent stones to be the same, or of a difference that can be made up with a smaller stone. If the rocks are irregular, then the stones will fit together leaving a triangular gap for the next course to fit into. I find irregular rocks easier to work with than flat ones; with flat rocks you have to be more precise. Find a stone that fits well and then continue for a few more feet. A rule of thumb, passed down from my wall-building teacher’s mentor, is to try a stone seven different ways. If it doesn’t fit by the seventh try, use another stone.

In seguitu, chjappà a terra daretu à e petre è tamp a terra in i spazii between, behind, and beneath the stones with top of the sledgehammer. This is an important step because the dirt becomes the mortar for the wall. I also recommend adding rubble (those stones you won’t use on the face of your wall) behind the face course to give greater strength to the wall. Pound the rubble and soil mix until you are satisfied that it is solid. Continue the first course until you reach the end of the wall. When you are done, test

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 u vostru cursu camminendu dolcemente. E petre ùn deve micca sbulicà sottu u vostru pesu.

 

Per principià u sicondu cursu, sceglite una petra chì ponterà a prima unione di u cursu di fondu. Avoid having joints run up the face of the wall, and angle (batter) the courses backward—approximately 1 inch per vertical foot. This creates a stable wall. For added strength, intermittently place single stones that run the full depth of the wall. This will only work with rectangular rocks. For irregular rocks, place a large rock behind a face rock every 3 feet or so. As you set a course, you will come to situations, probably quite a few of them, where the rock placement is perfect on all sides but one. These are the planting opportunities that give life to a stone wall.

Continue building in this manner until you are one course away from the finished height. Fitting stones will get easier as you go, and you’ll likely discover that there’s a certain magic moment when you’re building a wall: you hear a thump that signals you’ve placed a rock perfec

 

 

 

Fate l'altezza di u vostru muru

The ideal height for a dry-stacked retaining wall is 18 to 22 inches—so you can sit on it when your gardening chores are done. Even if

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you don’t plan to sit on your wall, 3 feet is about as high as I would recommend building any dry-stacked wall; higher walls should be engineered for stability. Using your stakes, string, and line level, mark the height of the capstone. You’ll also want to check the level of individual stones as you go. It’s difficult to get the capstone perfectly level, but a 1-inch variance looks level overall.

 

Portate assai pacienza à u prucessu di mette u capstone; hè una culminazione di l'abilità chì avete sviluppatu finu à questu puntu. Deve esse circa 15 à 18 inch di prufundità, cumpostu da una à trè petre. Aduprate a terra è una bona pusizioni per assicurà e petre, è cum'è cù l'articuli di u muru, evitendu articuli longu in u capstone. Se vulete pusà nantu à u muru, sceglite e petre lisce è lisce. Or, omplete i spazii cù a terra è pianta erbe fragranti per cuscini. Un capstone piantatu hè un toccu finale diliziosu à un muru vivente.

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