Rụpụta Nkume Nkume kpọrọ nkụ na-ejigide mgbidi na-adọba ahịhịa

Ịchọrọ ịrụ mgbidi mgbidi nke nkume gị, ma ị maghị otú ị ga-esi malite? Ọ bụrụ na ị nwere enweghị isi ogige, mgbidi na-ejigide nkume nwere ike inye aka gbochie mbuze ma nye ebe mara mma ịkụ ihe. Iji mụta ka esi ejikọta nke gị ọnụ, site na mmalite ruo n'isi, gụọ n'ihu.

 

To figure out how much stone you’ll need, multiply your wall’s height times the depth times the length. If your wall is 2 feet high, 1-1/2 feet wide, and 20 feet long, you’ll need roughly 60 cubic feet of stone. Most stoneyards will deliver the stones for a slight charge; have them placed as close to the site of your retaining wall as possible.

Banyere tools, you’ll need a shovel for digging your trench and backfilling, a mattok for attacking the grade, and a small sledgehammer for tamping soil. For marking your site and leveling rocks, you’ll need a line level, a few tall stakes, string, some flour, and a 4- or 8-foot level.

 

So you’re all set with your ngwá ọrụ, ụfọdụ mmiri ọṅụṅụ, ma eleghị anya ụfọdụ egwu na-arụ ọrụ. Ihe mbụ ị ga-eme bụ ikpebi ihu ihu mgbidi ahụ. Ọ bụrụ na ọ kwụ ọtọ, enwere ike iji bọọdụ ma ọ bụ eriri gbatịpụrụ n'etiti stakes iji akara akara. Ma ọ bụghị ya, jiri eriri ubi ma tinye ntụ ọka n'akụkụ ya.

 

Now you can start digging. The easiest approach is to cut and fill—that is, dig into the slope where the wall will go and spread the earth below you to create a level terrace. When you cut and fill, the wall is backed by undisturbed soil, which is more stable than fill. For design reasons, however, you might choose to build a freestanding wall and fill behind it with soil from another site. Or you might do a partial cut and fill, which is somewhere between the two.

A na-ewu mgbidi na nkuzi. The base course is structurally the most important, while the final course, the capstone, is the most challenging. For stability, walls should be at least 20 inches wide at the base. They can taper slightly toward the top, but you’ll want a wall that is at least two rocks wide in most places. This can be accomplished by mixing stones of different sizes or by backfilling with a combination of two-thirds rubble to one-third soil.

 

 Gwuo trenchi maka nkuzi ntọala

Start by digging a trench about 4 inches deep and at least 2 feet wide. A straightedged spade will give you a nice, even edge. The first course must be very solid and tightly fit because the weight of the wall will rest on it. Take the time to find rocks that lock into place, without leaving gaps. Randomly lay your largest rocks along the front edge of the trench. Set the first stone, shifting it around until it sits securely without being rocked easily, and then fill with the remaining stones. If you are using rectangular stones, you want the height of adjacent stones to be the same, or of a difference that can be made up with a smaller stone. If the rocks are irregular, then the stones will fit together leaving a triangular gap for the next course to fit into. I find irregular rocks easier to work with than flat ones; with flat rocks you have to be more precise. Find a stone that fits well and then continue for a few more feet. A rule of thumb, passed down from my wall-building teacher’s mentor, is to try a stone seven different ways. If it doesn’t fit by the seventh try, use another stone.

Na-esote, sụọ shọvel unyi n'azụ nkume ma kpatụ ụwa n'ime oghere between, behind, and beneath the stones with top of the sledgehammer. This is an important step because the dirt becomes the mortar for the wall. I also recommend adding rubble (those stones you won’t use on the face of your wall) behind the face course to give greater strength to the wall. Pound the rubble and soil mix until you are satisfied that it is solid. Continue the first course until you reach the end of the wall. When you are done, test

 usoro gị site n'iji nwayọọ na-eje ije na ya. Nkume ekwesịghị ịpụta n'okpuru ibu gị.

 

Iji malite usoro nke abụọ, họrọ nkume nke ga-ejikọta njikọ mbụ nke usoro ala. Avoid having joints run up the face of the wall, and angle (batter) the courses backward—approximately 1 inch per vertical foot. This creates a stable wall. For added strength, intermittently place single stones that run the full depth of the wall. This will only work with rectangular rocks. For irregular rocks, place a large rock behind a face rock every 3 feet or so. As you set a course, you will come to situations, probably quite a few of them, where the rock placement is perfect on all sides but one. These are the planting opportunities that give life to a stone wall.

Continue building in this manner until you are one course away from the finished height. Fitting stones will get easier as you go, and you’ll likely discover that there’s a certain magic moment when you’re building a wall: you hear a thump that signals you’ve placed a rock perfec

 

Mee ka mgbidi gị dị elu

The ideal height for a dry-stacked retaining wall is 18 to 22 inches—so you can sit on it when your gardening chores are done. Even if

you don’t plan to sit on your wall, 3 feet is about as high as I would recommend building any dry-stacked wall; higher walls should be engineered for stability. Using your stakes, string, and line level, mark the height of the capstone. You’ll also want to check the level of individual stones as you go. It’s difficult to get the capstone perfectly level, but a 1-inch variance looks level overall.

 

Weta ogologo ntachi obi n'usoro itokwasi nkume; ọ bụ ngwucha nka ị zụlitere ruo ebe a. Ọ kwesịrị ịdị ihe dịka sentimita 15 ruo 18 n'ime omimi, nke nwere otu nkume ruo atọ. Jiri ala na ebe dị mma iji chekwaa nkume ndị ahụ, dịkwa ka ọ dị na nkwonkwo mgbidi, zere nkwonkwo ogologo na nkume nkume. Ọ bụrụ na ịchọrọ ịnọdụ ala na mgbidi, họrọ nkume ndị dị larịị, dị larịị. Ma ọ bụ, mejuo oghere na ala ma kụọ ahịhịa na-esi ísì ụtọ maka akwa akwa. Nkume a kụrụ akụ bụ ọmarịcha imecha mgbidi dị ndụ.