Byggðu brjálaða hellulögn með þurrstaflaðri stoðvegg úr steini

Langar þig að byggja þinn eigin steinstoðvegg en er ekki viss um hvernig á að byrja? Ef þú ert með ójafn garð, steinstoðveggur getur hjálpað til við að koma í veg fyrir veðrun og gefur góðan stað til að gróðursetja. Til að læra hvernig á að setja saman þitt eigið, frá upphafi til enda, lestu áfram.

 

To figure out how much stone you’ll need, multiply your wall’s height times the depth times the length. If your wall is 2 feet high, 1-1/2 feet wide, and 20 feet long, you’ll need roughly 60 cubic feet of stone. Most stoneyards will deliver the stones for a slight charge; have them placed as close to the site of your retaining wall as possible.

Eins og fyrir tools, you’ll need a shovel for digging your trench and backfilling, a mattur for attacking the grade, and a small sledgehammer for tamping soil. For marking your site and leveling rocks, you’ll need a line level, a few tall stakes, string, some flour, and a 4- or 8-foot level.

 

So you’re all set with your verkfæri, drykkjarvatn og kannski einhver lög til að vinna eftir. Það fyrsta sem þarf að gera er að ákvarða framhlið veggsins. Ef það er beint er hægt að nota borð eða band sem er strekkt á milli stika til að merkja línuna. Annars skaltu nota garðslöngu og merkja kantinn með hveiti.

 

Now you can start digging. The easiest approach is to cut and fill—that is, dig into the slope where the wall will go and spread the earth below you to create a level terrace. When you cut and fill, the wall is backed by undisturbed soil, which is more stable than fill. For design reasons, however, you might choose to build a freestanding wall and fill behind it with soil from another site. Or you might do a partial cut and fill, which is somewhere between the two.

Veggir eru byggðir í brautum. The base course is structurally the most important, while the final course, the capstone, is the most challenging. For stability, walls should be at least 20 inches wide at the base. They can taper slightly toward the top, but you’ll want a wall that is at least two rocks wide in most places. This can be accomplished by mixing stones of different sizes or by backfilling with a combination of two-thirds rubble to one-third soil.

 

 Grafa skurð fyrir undirlag

Start by digging a trench about 4 inches deep and at least 2 feet wide. A straightedged spade will give you a nice, even edge. The first course must be very solid and tightly fit because the weight of the wall will rest on it. Take the time to find rocks that lock into place, without leaving gaps. Randomly lay your largest rocks along the front edge of the trench. Set the first stone, shifting it around until it sits securely without being rocked easily, and then fill with the remaining stones. If you are using rectangular stones, you want the height of adjacent stones to be the same, or of a difference that can be made up with a smaller stone. If the rocks are irregular, then the stones will fit together leaving a triangular gap for the next course to fit into. I find irregular rocks easier to work with than flat ones; with flat rocks you have to be more precise. Find a stone that fits well and then continue for a few more feet. A rule of thumb, passed down from my wall-building teacher’s mentor, is to try a stone seven different ways. If it doesn’t fit by the seventh try, use another stone.

Næst skaltu moka óhreinindum á bak við steinana og troða jörðinni inn í rýmin between, behind, and beneath the stones with top of the sledgehammer. This is an important step because the dirt becomes the mortar for the wall. I also recommend adding rubble (those stones you won’t use on the face of your wall) behind the face course to give greater strength to the wall. Pound the rubble and soil mix until you are satisfied that it is solid. Continue the first course until you reach the end of the wall. When you are done, test

 brautina þína með því að ganga varlega á hann. Steinarnir ættu ekki að rúlla út undir þyngd þinni.

 

Til að hefja seinni brautina skaltu velja stein sem mun brúa fyrstu samskeyti neðsta brautarinnar. Avoid having joints run up the face of the wall, and angle (batter) the courses backward—approximately 1 inch per vertical foot. This creates a stable wall. For added strength, intermittently place single stones that run the full depth of the wall. This will only work with rectangular rocks. For irregular rocks, place a large rock behind a face rock every 3 feet or so. As you set a course, you will come to situations, probably quite a few of them, where the rock placement is perfect on all sides but one. These are the planting opportunities that give life to a stone wall.

Continue building in this manner until you are one course away from the finished height. Fitting stones will get easier as you go, and you’ll likely discover that there’s a certain magic moment when you’re building a wall: you hear a thump that signals you’ve placed a rock perfec

 

Gerðu vegginn þinn hæð

The ideal height for a dry-stacked retaining wall is 18 to 22 inches—so you can sit on it when your gardening chores are done. Even if

you don’t plan to sit on your wall, 3 feet is about as high as I would recommend building any dry-stacked wall; higher walls should be engineered for stability. Using your stakes, string, and line level, mark the height of the capstone. You’ll also want to check the level of individual stones as you go. It’s difficult to get the capstone perfectly level, but a 1-inch variance looks level overall.

 

Komdu með mikla þolinmæði í ferlið við að leggja toppsteininn; það er hápunktur kunnáttunnar sem þú hefur þróað til þessa. Það ætti að vera um það bil 15 til 18 tommur djúpt, samanstendur af einum til þremur steinum. Notaðu jarðveg og góða staðsetningu til að festa steinana og rétt eins og með veggsamskeyti, forðastu langa samskeyti í þaksteininum. Ef þú vilt sitja á veggnum skaltu velja slétta, flata steina. Eða fylltu eyður með jarðvegi og plantaðu ilmandi jurtum fyrir púða. Gróðursettur dekksteinn er yndislegur frágangur á lifandi vegg.